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Having trouble with edge to edge - Pro Stitcher

edited September 2013 in Ask An HQ Expert
We do okay through the design/area/repeat/fit/point-to-point/negative distance/baseline stages, and get it all laid out on the screen and successfully quilt Row 1. Then I run into trouble. The machine moves to the beginning of Row 2, just like it should, and the motors are disabled. I drop the needle into the quilt, and advance the quilt so there is enough throat space for the next row to stitch out. This is where I run into trouble. My next steps are pressing Quilt, Reposition, Start Point, Cancel, Resume, and Run (this is according to the instructions in the manual). Instead of stitching Row 1, the machine heads toward me! In fact, I have to hit the Emergency Stop because it seems determined to run into the front roller.

I then give up and reset the area for a couple of rows at a time, rather than the whole quilt, but then there's guesswork at getting it aligned properly, i.e., distance between rows, etc. I would prefer to have the computer direct all of this alignment, if I can figure out how to get it to work!

I notice there is also a button called "Current Point". Do I do anything with this? Thanks for your help. Donna


  • When I do edge to edge after I run the first row let the machine move to were the second row should start advance the quilt the hit cancel ,Reposition,Start Point you will be starting with the first row again and you will the proper distance between the rows so I'am always using the first row stitch out the whole quilt. Hope this helps
  • Thanks so much! I will try this method!
  • I tried it and it works! Karla, if you are ever in Delta, Colorado, let me know and I'll buy your lunch!
  • Glad it worked for you and If your ever in Jacksonville FL I'll buy you lunch!!
  • Girls,
    This will work until you start using the new 1/2 wrap feature. When you start using that feature you will have to look at your stitch placement numbers.
  • I did a design using the 1/2 wrap and then I had to reposition the needle at the last stop point after I advanced the quilt. It was not ideal. Some stop points are not easy to find--like when the stitching doubles back on itself. I'm looking for a better method. I also found that depending on the size of the design there might not be space enough left to place the needle in the next start point before you advance the quilt. Please give me details on using the stitch placement numbers! Thanks so much.
  • I am fairly new to quilting. I've had to start every row new so I sometimes don't have even spaces between rows. How do I get my machine to go to my next starting row? It would make for more even quilting spaces between rows for me. I appreciate any suggestions.
  • Graciela,

    When you are doing a quilt using edge to edge it is easy to get your spacing even if you put your whole quilt in the Pro-Stitcher first. You can find the instructions on the Handi Quilter website. Go to the Education tab and then select the HQ Pro-Stitcher tutorials. You need the one on Creating an Area for an Edge to Edge. This will walk you through setting up your whole quilt on the Pro-Stitcher.

    Good luck,

    Cheryl Duncan
    Handi Quilter Studio Educator
  • I would like to add a note to Cheryl's good advice about "putting the whole quilt" in the Pro-Stitcher. Be sure that the point-to-point button has been pushed (to avoid having the machine stop and tie off -- don't ask me how I know this!). I also push the baseline button. I want all the little boxes between the design repeats on the screen to disappear. (On one design recently I just couldn't get them to go away, and finally had to give up and input another design.) And I also save it under a distinctive name (usually proceed the filename by DONNA so I will know it can be deleted later.
    Now you stitch the first row. It will tie off at the end and disable the motors and indicate a "long pause". You can move your machine back over to the left side of the frame, and press RESUME. The machine will move to the exact spot it should be to start the second row. BUT DON'T START IT YET! The machine will move over to the right a little way so you can pull up the bobbin thread, but DON'T PULL UP THE THREAD YET. Instead, mark that exact spot where it's trying to pull up the bobbin thread. I use a Sharpie pen (or if the fabric is too dark, I use a little scrap of file folder label and mark it). Make sure the button is pushed so that the motors are still disabled. Now you advance the quilt. Move the machine back so the needle is exactly aligned with the mark you made. Press CANCEL, DESIGN, REPOSITION, and START POINT. On the screen your cursor moves back to the beginning of Row 1, and this is exactly what you want. You will keep quilting Row 1 over and over again!

    Now press Quilt, Run, etc. just as you always do.

    Is this clear as mud? I haven't experimented yet with the new ability to "wrap" the design, and would appreciate hearing from anyone who knows how to do that. Also, I don't understand "Window" at all. Any ideas?
  • Thanks, I'll try as soon as I finish ripping the whole quilt I messed up.
  • What a shame! I hate to rip out. In fact, I just "re-purposed" a defective quilt to give to charity. It was big enough so I could make it into two smaller lap-type quilts after I cut away the worst of the errors. But I admire people who have the will power to rip. My sister calls it "skinning". She won't let a less-than-perfect quilt leave her sewing room. It's hard to believe we had the same parents!
  • I just returned from the Houston Quilt show...Awesome but overwhelming. I've decided that if I ever finish ripping, I want to learn fancy and quilt the blocks and borders differently. I'm getting brave except for 1 problem. I don't know
    I met the Handiquilter man whom told me they have a teacher in Dallas, TX. I'd love to find her before March. Can anyone help me?
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